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I usually fill the old holes with something like JB Weld or epoxy steel, and poke steel wool in the hole as well.It’s important to fill the holes completely with some sort of hard filler, do so by poking the epoxy and wool in with a small probe such as a tiny drill bit.Most of videos on this site are from video sharing websites.If you see your copyrighted content and would like it to be removed, please write me.So, take a stroll down memory lane to remember all of our past Word of the Year selections.I do not assert ownership of any images or videos posted here; the images and videos belong to their respective owners.

More, nearly all modern skis are overall super strong.

If the holes don’t overlap but are super close to your new ones, still fill the old holes with epoxy steel and steel wool, otherwise fill the holes with regular 5-minute epoxy, or even use the plastic plugs available from ski shops. If the ski doesn’t have a metal layer, start the drilling with a small bit, then step up through successively larger bits to your final size.

The idea is to prevent the edge of the existing hole from forcing the bit to the side and only drilling the epoxy out of the old hole. If your drilling begins in the metal, stepping the bit sizes will usually work.

We’re talking a millimeter or less of this, so no big deal. Tap the holes if you’ve got a ski mounting tap, place all binding screws with the same long-cure epoxy you used to fill the existing holes, don’t over torque, let cure for 48 hours, and you’re good to go backcountry skiing!

If you’re a craftsman and have a rotary grinder (e.g., Dremel), you can “egg” out the holes using a small rotary cutting bit, which works much better. (Note, it’s possible that the epoxy you use for your final screw placement can soften the epoxy fill in the original holes.

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